Lower Pulley Install Question

RiceKicker · 03-01-2004, 10:45 AM

Hey guys,

I received the JDM lower pulley special they had going earlier. I just wanted to know if it's necessary to remove the intercooler coolant reservior, Air Box, Boot, Engine Fan and Shroud. Did you all remove these things to do your own install? I'm still pondering whether I should do the install or take it to the "pros". Thanks for any helpful comments.

Here is the link to instructions. Do I have to follow these step by step? Thanks ----> http://www.teamjdm.com/id257.htm

-Kosta

JT2002HD · 03-01-2004, 10:54 AM

you don't HAVE to remove all those things, it would make it easier with those thing off of the truth, but to tell you the truck i didn't remove them and i had no problems with the install at all.

JT

RiceKicker · 03-01-2004, 11:58 AM

So what did you do? Did you disconnect any of the stuff they state like MAF etc. I really need all the help I can get.

chesterc · 03-01-2004, 12:42 PM

Kosta,

If you were to work from the top of the engine, then it will be easier with those things off.

I did mine from the bottom. I can say that this is a lot easier and you can see things clearly. I did NOT remove anything at all! Just wear some safety glasses so crap and dust won't get into your eyes. When I do pulley swaps I always work from underneath.

Before you decide to take it to the so called pros, let's find out what you have in your toolbox and we can go from there.

The must haves:
14 mm Hex head socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
8mm hex head socket
A set of combination wrenches if you don't have the torque converter lock metal thingy.

If you have all of these, you'll enjoy and learn so much that you did it yourself in under 2 hours if all goes well.

JT2002HD · 03-01-2004, 02:35 PM

yea, what he said;i

i worked from under the truck also, much easier, you will see once u get a good look at it, didn't unplug anything or nothing like that, just removed the negative on the battery (just something i always do before i do any work on the truck) and the engine lock really helps if you have one, also called engine strap

MRBLUEOVAL · 03-01-2004, 02:55 PM

Get it on ramps. Lock up the converter and work from the bottom. This will make it easy. Take the belt off first and all your work is done from underneath. You don't need to remove anything from what I recall. Once your done then the new belt goes back on. You should be done in a few hours. You might bust a knuckle loosening up those bolts though. I know a few guys that did

Venom · 03-01-2004, 03:26 PM

OK, here's a how to on pulley swapping. I'm going from memory, but it's really an easy project anyway.

the only hard part is breaking the stock pulley adapter loose - 100+ ft lbs of torque holding that puppy on! Plus you need the 14mm/9/16" allen head to turn it.

It's really all straightforward, but definitely do everything but taking the belt off from underneath.
Pull the one 10mm bolt that holds the intercooler res. on and lift it up and set it to the side to make belt access easier - not req. but it's only 1 bolt and it does make removing/installing the belt easier.

Once you get the stock unit off, everything is cake. I've done mine a couple of times and I can swap pulleys in about 15-20 min on jack stands!
-------------------------------------

Step-by-step going from memory

before you jack the truck up
pull the ground off the battery - not req. but a good idea
pull the 10mm bolt and set the intercooler res out of the way
using a 1/2" breaker bar in the tensioner, relax the tension on the belt and take it off

jack the truck up and put your stands under it
remove the flywheel inspection cover - 2 15mm bolts I think
install the strap from a torque converter bolt to one of the inspection cover bolts
take the 3 bolts out that hold the pulley cage on, one has a nut holding a power steering hose protector on it.
Using the 14mm/9/16" allen adapter on a GOOD 1/2" breaker bar, loosen the pulley adapter - it's left handed threads so turn it clockwise to remove it - it's REALLY TIGHT so be prepared to brace your feet on the opposite wheel and pull HARD.
Once it breaks loose, unscrew it and you have the pulley/cage assembly off.
Put the new pulley hub on, use some blue locktight on the 3 allen head bolts - mine were 8mm heads and my 8mm allen socket was too big of diameter- it kept binding against the outside of the hub so I picked up another one. Torque those 3 bolts to 40 ft/lbs.
Put the ring on and locktight those bolts - I think they're 40 ft lbs too.
Put the original cage bolt back in that held the wire protector for the power steering hose.

VERY IMPORTANT - REMOVE THE ENGINE LOCK STRAP!
put your inspection cover back on
double check all your bolts
drop the truck back down
install the new belt
put the intercooler res back in place and put the bolt back in- just snug it down
replace your batt terminal

reflash your computer/install your chip

buy lots of tires. :bo:

I think that's it
chime in if I missed anything guys!

-V

Silver03HD · 03-01-2004, 03:32 PM

;i It's that easy!! Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

P.S. That bolt is real hard to break loose.

200harley · 03-01-2004, 05:41 PM

I think i'm the only one so far but my suggestion is to take to someone that does it for a living, if they charge a resonable price. I had a guy do my first 8lb pulley for 50 bucks. I also got the metco one from JDM about 2 weeks ago. This time I wanted to do the pulley change myself. Maybe i was doing something wrong but it took me like 2 hours. I've taken and put back the supercharger in that much time. I just changed plugs this weekend in 2 hours. So my advice is either to be prepared to spend some time on it and be patient if you do it yourself.

that's just my opinion.

1FastSCrew · 03-01-2004, 07:18 PM

Did mine , myself about 3 months ago. Far and away the hardest thing is to break loose the big 14mm allen bolt in the middle of the stock pulley. Beyond that it is really easy and I didn't remove anything. Removing the IC reservoir sounds like a good idea, but my neighbor had a belt remover tool that made it fairly easy without removing the reservoir.

You'll love how this mod really wakes up the truck and the whine in your SC.

DSG HD · 03-01-2004, 08:22 PM

That center bolt broke loose sooooo easily for me........

lay with your shoulders close to the drivers side tire........
grab hold of the sway bar.............
push on the breakover bar with your foot..........
very simple...very easy!

Venom · 03-01-2004, 11:35 PM

Mine was a bit<h!
Ask the guys who know me - I ain't no delicate flower, and I had to put my feet on the tire and lift myself off the ground and bounce!
Mine was TIGHT!

AFGuy0127 · 01-08-2005, 04:24 AM

I know this is an old thread, but my question pertains to this. For the one-piece pulley, and not the caged pulley assembly, what is the torque value on the bolts for installation? I'm getting ready to put my lower pulley on here in a few days and was wanting to ask before I got started.

*edit* Just thought of another question... does anyone have the engine strap? I don't have one, and was wondering if someone had one that I could borrow or buy. Or, know of another way to lock the rotating assembly down?

Speedin Bob · 01-08-2005, 08:29 AM

There have been issues with removing the caged pulley setup.

A generous amount of anti-seize on the threads of the pulley spindle before you install it.

Bob

AFGuy0127 · 01-09-2005, 12:39 AM

Well my question wasn't for the caged pulley, it was for the solid one-piece pulley. Although I did plan to put anti-seize on the threads before install. Appreciate the info though, and I'm sure there's always someone who finds it very useful.

03-01-2004, 10:45 AM	#1 (permalink)
RiceKicker Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Florida/Alabama Posts: 681 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Lower Pulley Install Question Hey guys, I received the JDM lower pulley special they had going earlier. I just wanted to know if it's necessary to remove the intercooler coolant reservior, Air Box, Boot, Engine Fan and Shroud. Did you all remove these things to do your own install? I'm still pondering whether I should do the install or take it to the "pros". Thanks for any helpful comments. Here is the link to instructions. Do I have to follow these step by step? Thanks ----> http://www.teamjdm.com/id257.htm -Kosta __________________ Pain is Temporary...PRIDE is FOREVER! "From time to time, the tree of liberty must be watered with the blood of tyrants and patriots." - Thomas Jefferson "The objective of war is not to die for your country, but to make the other poor bastard die for his." - General Patton -----------------------------Click Here for my gallery-----------------------------

03-01-2004, 12:42 PM	#4 (permalink)
chesterc BLWN HOG Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: East Bay, CA Posts: 775 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Kosta, If you were to work from the top of the engine, then it will be easier with those things off. I did mine from the bottom. I can say that this is a lot easier and you can see things clearly. I did NOT remove anything at all! Just wear some safety glasses so crap and dust won't get into your eyes. When I do pulley swaps I always work from underneath. Before you decide to take it to the so called pros, let's find out what you have in your toolbox and we can go from there. The must haves: 14 mm Hex head socket 1/2" drive breaker bar 8mm hex head socket A set of combination wrenches if you don't have the torque converter lock metal thingy. If you have all of these, you'll enjoy and learn so much that you did it yourself in under 2 hours if all goes well. __________________ 2003 FFW-Palmdale, CA - Tough Truck Winner 2002 HD Black NLOC - BALA Gallery 1996 Probe GT

03-01-2004, 03:32 PM	#8 (permalink)
Silver03HD Coolest Member of NHTOC Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Dallas Posts: 1,854 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	;i It's that easy!! Good luck, let us know how it turns out. P.S. That bolt is real hard to break loose. __________________ '03 Two-Tone #00664 Born on 11/25/2002 395 RWHP 493 RWTQ

03-01-2004, 07:18 PM	#10 (permalink)
1FastSCrew GetBusyLivinOrGetBusyDyin Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Monroe, NC Posts: 1,662 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Did mine , myself about 3 months ago. Far and away the hardest thing is to break loose the big 14mm allen bolt in the middle of the stock pulley. Beyond that it is really easy and I didn't remove anything. Removing the IC reservoir sounds like a good idea, but my neighbor had a belt remover tool that made it fairly easy without removing the reservoir. You'll love how this mod really wakes up the truck and the whine in your SC. __________________ Justin NHTOC#157 / 03 2-tone #9101 444 RWHP / 527 Ft-lbs TQ SAE

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03-01-2004, 10:54 AM	#2 (permalink)
JT2002HD It's me! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 818 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	you don't HAVE to remove all those things, it would make it easier with those thing off of the truth, but to tell you the truck i didn't remove them and i had no problems with the install at all. JT

03-01-2004, 11:58 AM	#3 (permalink)
RiceKicker Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Florida/Alabama Posts: 681 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	So what did you do? Did you disconnect any of the stuff they state like MAF etc. I really need all the help I can get.

03-01-2004, 02:35 PM	#5 (permalink)
JT2002HD It's me! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 818 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	yea, what he said;i i worked from under the truck also, much easier, you will see once u get a good look at it, didn't unplug anything or nothing like that, just removed the negative on the battery (just something i always do before i do any work on the truck) and the engine lock really helps if you have one, also called engine strap

03-01-2004, 02:55 PM	#6 (permalink)
MRBLUEOVAL Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tampa Florida Posts: 4,661 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Get it on ramps. Lock up the converter and work from the bottom. This will make it easy. Take the belt off first and all your work is done from underneath. You don't need to remove anything from what I recall. Once your done then the new belt goes back on. You should be done in a few hours. You might bust a knuckle loosening up those bolts though. I know a few guys that did

03-01-2004, 03:26 PM	#7 (permalink)
Venom Superbeast Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Abilene, Texas Posts: 3,466 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	OK, here's a how to on pulley swapping. I'm going from memory, but it's really an easy project anyway. the only hard part is breaking the stock pulley adapter loose - 100+ ft lbs of torque holding that puppy on! Plus you need the 14mm/9/16" allen head to turn it. It's really all straightforward, but definitely do everything but taking the belt off from underneath. Pull the one 10mm bolt that holds the intercooler res. on and lift it up and set it to the side to make belt access easier - not req. but it's only 1 bolt and it does make removing/installing the belt easier. Once you get the stock unit off, everything is cake. I've done mine a couple of times and I can swap pulleys in about 15-20 min on jack stands! ------------------------------------- Step-by-step going from memory before you jack the truck up pull the ground off the battery - not req. but a good idea pull the 10mm bolt and set the intercooler res out of the way using a 1/2" breaker bar in the tensioner, relax the tension on the belt and take it off jack the truck up and put your stands under it remove the flywheel inspection cover - 2 15mm bolts I think install the strap from a torque converter bolt to one of the inspection cover bolts take the 3 bolts out that hold the pulley cage on, one has a nut holding a power steering hose protector on it. Using the 14mm/9/16" allen adapter on a GOOD 1/2" breaker bar, loosen the pulley adapter - it's left handed threads so turn it clockwise to remove it - it's REALLY TIGHT so be prepared to brace your feet on the opposite wheel and pull HARD. Once it breaks loose, unscrew it and you have the pulley/cage assembly off. Put the new pulley hub on, use some blue locktight on the 3 allen head bolts - mine were 8mm heads and my 8mm allen socket was too big of diameter- it kept binding against the outside of the hub so I picked up another one. Torque those 3 bolts to 40 ft/lbs. Put the ring on and locktight those bolts - I think they're 40 ft lbs too. Put the original cage bolt back in that held the wire protector for the power steering hose. VERY IMPORTANT - REMOVE THE ENGINE LOCK STRAP! put your inspection cover back on double check all your bolts drop the truck back down install the new belt put the intercooler res back in place and put the bolt back in- just snug it down replace your batt terminal reflash your computer/install your chip buy lots of tires. :bo: I think that's it chime in if I missed anything guys! -V

03-01-2004, 05:41 PM	#9 (permalink)
200harley Member Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 94 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	I think i'm the only one so far but my suggestion is to take to someone that does it for a living, if they charge a resonable price. I had a guy do my first 8lb pulley for 50 bucks. I also got the metco one from JDM about 2 weeks ago. This time I wanted to do the pulley change myself. Maybe i was doing something wrong but it took me like 2 hours. I've taken and put back the supercharger in that much time. I just changed plugs this weekend in 2 hours. So my advice is either to be prepared to spend some time on it and be patient if you do it yourself. that's just my opinion.

03-01-2004, 08:22 PM	#11 (permalink)
DSG HD Biker Join Date: May 2003 Location: On A Harley Posts: 1,024 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	That center bolt broke loose sooooo easily for me........ lay with your shoulders close to the drivers side tire........ grab hold of the sway bar............. push on the breakover bar with your foot.......... very simple...very easy!

03-01-2004, 11:35 PM	#12 (permalink)
Venom Superbeast Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Abilene, Texas Posts: 3,466 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Mine was a bit<h! Ask the guys who know me - I ain't no delicate flower, and I had to put my feet on the tire and lift myself off the ground and bounce! Mine was TIGHT!

01-08-2005, 04:24 AM	#13 (permalink)
AFGuy0127 Harley-less Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Carterville, IL Posts: 595 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	I know this is an old thread, but my question pertains to this. For the one-piece pulley, and not the caged pulley assembly, what is the torque value on the bolts for installation? I'm getting ready to put my lower pulley on here in a few days and was wanting to ask before I got started. edit Just thought of another question... does anyone have the engine strap? I don't have one, and was wondering if someone had one that I could borrow or buy. Or, know of another way to lock the rotating assembly down?

01-08-2005, 08:29 AM	#14 (permalink)
Speedin Bob WFC 10 SL/HD Winner Paid Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,832 NHTOC member #: 160 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	There have been issues with removing the caged pulley setup. A generous amount of anti-seize on the threads of the pulley spindle before you install it. Bob

01-09-2005, 12:39 AM	#15 (permalink)
AFGuy0127 Harley-less Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Carterville, IL Posts: 595 View this user's gallery iTrader: 0 / 0%	Well my question wasn't for the caged pulley, it was for the solid one-piece pulley. Although I did plan to put anti-seize on the threads before install. Appreciate the info though, and I'm sure there's always someone who finds it very useful.